God-Shaped Void

Woe to her who is rebellious and defiled, the oppressing city!  She listens to no voice, she accepts no correction.  She does not trust in the Lord; she does not draw near to her God...
The Lord within her is righteous; He does no injustice; each morning He shows forth His justice; each dawn He does not fail...

                                                               ~Zephaniah 3:1-2,5

Two weeks ago, La Paz officially celebrated its long-awaited Carnaval holiday, the Bolivian version of Mardi Gras.  While the tradition of Carnaval is celebrated in countries all over the world (particularly those predominantly Roman Catholic), this is perhaps the most significant festival on the Bolivian calendar.  As a gringa (white girl), you know the season of Carnaval has begun when you walk about the city dodging water balloons aimed specifically at you. The festival in La Paz is characterized by its widespread water fights, an appropriate pastime since these are the summer months for South Americans.  Thousands of tourists arrive every year to take part in the celebration, especially to see the elaborate parades.  Dancers in colorful costumes tell the story of how the Spaniards conquered the indigenous populations of the Andes and attempted to convert them to Catholicism.  

The most well-known of the dances is that of the diablos (devils). These dancers represent the belief that a sacrifice to the devil will keep evil spirits and bad luck away for the rest of the year. Some Bolivian families will also burn little packages called "ch'allas" in honor of Mother Earth to thank her for her provision. Early in the Carnaval season, participants can buy miniature objects that symbolize what they hope to attain in the coming year.  A tiny passport symbolizes dreams of travel, a miniature house represents the desire for a new home.  Although these sacrifices are primarily offered to Ekeko, the "god of abundance", Catholic priests in the city are available to bless these offerings.  The blend of pagan beliefs and Catholicism is widely accepted. 

    

One source describes the celebration as "a spectacle worthy of the faith it represents and a moving devotion" (Bolivian Carnaval).  Don't get me wrong - water fights and colorful parades are a lot of fun.  Still I can't help but wonder what we are celebrating, really.  'A moving devotion' to whom?  'Worthy' of what faith?  Is God delighted to be "included" in traditions that rank Him as high as 'Mother Earth'?  By no means am I dismissing the significance of the cultural heritage that Carnaval showcases.  But it would be careless not to question what these customs represent at the core.  Because let's be honest, it's a little confusing.  Behind the confetti and costumes, will we find something or someone worthy to be praised? 

The prophet Zephaniah was specifically targeting the city of Jerusalem in the above passage.  But I couldn't help but think of La Paz.

What happens to your soul and to mine when we flirt with the god-of-the-moment?  Misplaced worship is certainly not unique to Bolivia.  In fact, it isn't unique at all.  Idolization is woven into the dilemma of human sin.  We may not literally bow down to the work of our hands and give it a name, but it's there.  I am a task-oriented person, so my idols always seem to reveal themselves in my accomplishments - trophies, awards, diplomas.  If I'm honest, they're where I often look for validation.  And boy, once those idols have taken root in our hearts, they are the wiliest weeds to pull out.

Here's the good news:  misplaced worship means there's a place for worship.  There is a reason why we allow things, people, causes, campaigns to have mastery over us.  There is a reason why we long to put our trust in them, obey them, hope in them.  It's because we were designed with a God-shaped void.  Not only is He the only righteous God who deserves our praise, but He's the only one who can fill us with everything we will ever need. 

The Lord within her is righteous... God is here in La Paz.  In the hearts of His beloved.  And the beautiful thing is, He doesn't just show up for a three-day festival as one of many honored guests.  He shows up every dawn, and He comes as the Sovereign King.           

         

 At school, we celebrated a 'Team Day' on the Friday before Carnaval.  This year it was a water day, with our own games and school-wide water balloon fight!  We explain to the students that although the holiday is not Christ-centered, we can celebrate His Living Water in a way that gives Him all the glory.  The kids had a fabulous time, especially when they got to throw water balloons at their teachers.  Ah, sweet revenge! 

Over the weekend, my friend Joy and her family invited me to join them for some of the Carnaval festivities.  We took a minibus into El Centro (downtown La Paz) and attended the Children's Costume Parade on El Prado.  Or rather, I should say participated.  Thousands of people on the streets were armed with water balloons, water guns, and cans of espuma, a type of white foam similar to shaving cream.  As you can see, Joy's dad got hit pretty hard.

Before we left the downtown area, there was one more thing we had to investigate.  According to tourist websites like Trip Advisor, the #1 recommended attraction in La Paz is called 'Urban Rush Bolivia.'  For a relatively small fee, you can rappel face-first and then free fall from a seventeen-story building in the city!  Joy's dad and brother were brave enough to try.  Maybe one day you'll see photos of me diving out of a window in an orange jumpsuit.  Maybe. 

The view of the city was phenomenal in every direction!  Here you can see the San Francisco Church below and Sagárnaga - the touristy section of the city.
  

Thanks for reading, friends!